France is one of the most popular overseas travel destinations in the world, with most visitors choosing to see the most well known destinations. Paris and the French Riviera are the most visited regions in the country, followed by the Dordogne in south-west France, Brittany to the north-east, and the Luberon villages of Provence which attract many Americans because of the Peter Mayle books ‘A Year in Provence’.

But these highlights hardly scratch the surface of a country that offers such a great range of diversity in it scenery and places to visit, and the number of visitors in these regions can slightly reduce the pleasure of a visit. As a result regular visitors will be interested in finding somewhere a little off the beaten track.

The Ardeche

The Ardeche department is found in southern France, a little to the north of Avignon in Provence. The region escapes much of the tourism of Provence – but retains much of its charm! There are dramatic scenic highlights and numerous beautiful villages to explore, and the chance to travel on much quieter roads. The most well known highlight is the Ardeche Gorges. These are dramatic deep gorges with sheer cliffs dropping to the Ardeche River below. A road follows along the top of the gorges and offers spectacular views from numerous stopping points, while water enthusiasts might like to travel along the river itself in a canoe – these can be hired just upstream at Vallon Pont d’Arc. The Ardeche tourist authorities have issued a classification for their most picturesque villages called the ‘Ardeche villages of character’. These villages are almost all in very scenic settings, and frequently on hilltops with the added advantage of far-reaching views. The one aspect they all share is that an effort has been made to preserve the ‘traditional French village’ character that visitors are always looking for...and often can’t find!

Altogether there are about 17 of these villages listed and the Ardeche tourist board can give you details when you visit. Our personal favourites include Banne, Saint-Montan and Vogue but none were a disappointment:

• Banne is really two hamlets separated by a ridge rather than one village. As well as the charms of Banne itself you can enjoy some of the most stunning views in the region, stretching across orchards and tree covered hills to far-distant mountains.
• Saint-Montan is a pedestrian only village that appears unchanged with the centuries. Small stone medieval houses follow a maze of cobbled alleys up the steep hill to the ruins of a castle above.
• Vogue is on the Ardeche River and is the largest of the three villages listed here. There are numerous twisting passageways to follow, an abundance of plants hanging from the walls, and many beautiful architectural highlights dating from the 15th-16th centuries. The village is dominated by a substantial castle.

The Ardeche offers a great travel destination in itself, or perhaps could be visited as a two-three day excursion away from the hordes at Arles and Avignon to the south. Either way, when you visit you will find a great deal to enjoy, and leave feeling that you have truly experienced the 'real France'.